Eco Fashion – part II
Sustainable fashion – it sounds like an oxymoron. In an industry built upon the profitability of disposability, where a style of jean has a shorter lifespan than a wedge of Pecorino cheese, how could anything be sustainable? The use of sustainable textiles (think broader than purely organic textiles) in the production of garments has a part to play, but the emphasis should be on an holistic approach that incorporates every aspect of the fashion and clothing industry: production, transport, packaging, marketing, retail and design.
The Institute for Market Transformation to Sustainability (MTS) outline in their Sustainable Products Standards the requisites for a textile to be considered sustainable. Whether it be cottom, bamboo, hemp, nylon or polyester all processes throughout the supply chain must engage positively with the environment and the health of human and ecological systems. Sustainable textiles need not always be organic either. The MTS Standard includes synthetic, petrochemical based textiles as long as their manufacture complies with sustainable practices, among these: the safety of the chemical and material inputs, energy and water efficiency as well as social equity for workers.
But, just as the textiles are only part of the garment , so too are they just a part of the overall industry. Sustainable clothing and fashion must consider further links in the supply chain: from transportation to packaging to the energy it takes to have an item of clothing hanging in a well-lit retail store.
Amongst Australian designers, Gorman is one such label striving to achieve sustainability not just in garment materials (they have an organic range) but through initiatives such as the introduction of recycled, unbleached and undyed packaging; utilising shipping rather than air-freight as well as switching to green, 100% renewable energy. Perhaps most overlooked however, is the departure from a ‘fast-fashion’, trend oriented mentality and a move toward sustainable design. At Gorman, the philosophy seems an attempt to remedy a rather worrying statistic: that “Each year, Australians waste $1.56 billion (yes billion) on clothing that is never worn.” “It’s about quality, not quantity” those at Gorman preach. Sustainability through investing in key items of clothing that support environmentally friendly practices, ethical production and outlast a fickle fashion season.
It is a take on sustainability that seems widespread throughout the Australian eco fashion landscape, with adjectives like ‘timeless’ and ’simple’ the buzz-words for designers describing their creations. Edgy womenswear label Skin and Threads‘ philosophy is all about creating pieces in natural and organic materials, ‘wardrobe staples’ – “the pieces you throw on over and over again because they work.” Luxury basics wear label, Bassike uses the highest quality organic cotton jersey to create a “product that represents simplicity.” Whilst luxury mens and womenswear designer label elsom “brings an understated beauty and simplicity to fashion using luxury textiles and traditional tailoring.”
Overseas, Edun, the socially conscious clothing label launched by none other than Bono and Ali Hewson concentrates on sustainability through ethical trade particularly in poverty striken parts of Africa. Edun is sustainable through fostering the health of humans and the environment, but also in the endevour to build community and skills and to generate a level of wealth amongst the poorest in the world.
On sustainability, the Edun website explains, “EDUN acts as a voice encouraging the fashion community to do business in Africa and thereby help bring the continent out of extreme poverty. In 1980, Africa had 6% share of the world trade. By 2002, this had dropped to just 2% despite Africa having 12% of the world’s population. If Africa could regain just an additional 1% share of global trade, it would earn $70 billion more in exports each year. This is several times more than what the region currently receives in international assistance.”
Sure, the fashion world may be accused of possessing a level of self-indulgence and an unhealthy obsession with image, but there are always exceptions to the rule (for want of a better cliche). Sustainable fashion ensures that consumers are looking their best and feeling their best whilst doing the best, environmentally, socially and ethically too.
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