Eco Fashion: part 1
“People are universally becoming much more concerned with the honesty of the company that they’re buying the product from and the environmental impact,” says outspoken fashion designer Katherine Hamnett on the current mainstreaming of organic and sustainable clothing. (see clip here)
Hamnett, who forged an image in the 1980’s with bold protest slogan T-shirts is now most visible in her push for the use of organic cotton, the demand for which has grown steadily in the 00’s. As consumers seek cleaner, more ethical solutions, many major retailers and designers are ‘cottoning on’ and including organic materials in their ranges.
Hamnett’s search for cleaner solutions came after her own study in 1989 uncovered the clothing and fashion industry’s dirty laundry, revealing conventional cotton agriculture as responsible for 10,000 deaths per annum from accidental pesticide poisoning (now 20,000) 1,000,000 deaths per annum from long-term acute pesticide poisonings desertification and long-term contamination of the aquifer. In addition to the environmental damages incurred by conventional cotton agriculture, those millions of people working in the various stages of the supply chain were found to suffer substandard working conditions tantamount to slavery. As Hamnett and over 30% of consumers agree, what we need are sustainable solutions: ecologically sound practices and fair-trade.
ORGANIC COTTON
Cotton is often thought of as the natural fibre, described as breathable and hypoallergenic. However, although worldwide, conventionally grown cotton crops account for a mere 3% or farmland, the production of ‘the natural fibre’ is responsible for 15%-25% of global pesticide use (Michael Von Straten, Pesticide Action Network International).
In developing nations where cotton is grown, the use and overuse of agrochemicals to keep crops pest and blemish free contributes to health hazards including cancer and respiratory problems for farmers and the wider population.(Arbona, 1998)
Furthermore, once harvested the fibre often undergoes exposure to various chemicals and treatments: chlorine bleaching, scrubs, retardants and permanent presses, before becoming a garment. Formaldehyde, a chemical preservative most commonly used to give a permanent press effect in clothing is an irritant classified as a human carcinogen. In scientific testing of clothing for TV3’s “Target” consumer watchdog program, formaldehyde concentrations up to 900 times above the safe level were found. (Sydney Morning Herald).
Organic cotton on the other hand, is grown without toxic pesticides and fertilisers or genetically modified organisms. The producers of organic cotton seek to create a holistic and sustainable approach to production through building biologically diverse agricultural systems and taking the care to replenish soil fertility. As well as being environmentally responsible at all stages of the supply chain, the organic cotton movement possesses strong ties with another sustainable practice- fair-trade.
Through fair trade with cotton farmers in India, Peru, Mali and Senegal buyers ensure that the production of cotton clothing is sustainable right from the initial base of the supply chain. Farmers are guaranteed a fair price and organically grown cotton often fetches at least 25% more than conventionally grown cotton. (STEP)
Instead of purchasing pesticides to maintain the crops, farmers are then able to employ workers to tend to the cotton whilst the health of humans and the environment is improved. It is hoped through sustainable practices like these, those in the developing world may be granted the opportunity to trade their way out of poverty and exploitation.
At the same time Katherine Hamnett maintains that sustainable clothing is and should be affordable. “The value to a farmer for cotton in a T-shirt averages about 4%- 5% of its retail value. If he’s getting paid 20% more for the value of the fibre, that puts 1% more on the T-shirt. It’s not a lot of money to pay.”
Popularity: 2% [?]
